Melaka (a.k.a. Malacca) Malaysia

One of the places we have been wanting to go see is Melaka (also spelled "Malacca") in Malaysia.  It is a relatively easy journey, and last weekend (June 18-20) we made it happen.
Melaka is a very old city, and is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It is located on the Malacca Strait, which separates Indonesia from the Malaysia peninsula.  The location is strategic, as the Malacca Straits are the passage connecting  the Indian Ocean with the South China Sea, and eastern Asia.  It is precisely at the narrowest gap of the straits.  As a consequence of its location, it has been the battle grounds of imperialist nations for centuries, desiring to control the lucrative trade route.
The city was founded sometime around 1300 by the Malay sultans.  In the early 1400s the emperor of China sent his "ambassador" Chung Ho, along with an an entourage of 27,000 emissaries, and a fleet of thousands of ships on a world voyage mission to establish trade relationships with China.  He completed seven voyages, and stopped at Melaka on at least two of these voyages, hanging around until the monsoon winds were favorable to return to China.

In 1511 the Portuguese conquered Melaka, and established a fort at the location.  The Portuguese not only wanted to establish trade-- they wanted exclusive control of it.  Ships stopping in Melaka were required to pay a tax, and those that didn't were sunk or their cargoes confiscated.

Next came the Dutch, who took over Melaka from the Portuguese in 1641.  The Dutch handed over control of Melaka to the English in 1795 in fear of it falling into the hands of the French (Napoleon)-- a supposed temporary arrangement.   The port declined as a trade center, as its harbor became silted, and the emergence of Singapore and St. George as the more favored trading ports in the region.  (Singapore was founded as a free trade port).   At one point the British were planning to destroy the city and deter its reemergence as a competing trade center (to Singapore and St George), if returned to the Dutch.  The Japanese occupied Melaka and Malaya in 1942 until their surrender in 1945.  Malaya became an independent nation in 1956

The old fort walls of Aforteleza, the fort originally built by the Portuguese in 1512.  The fort was altered, expanded, destroyed by following rulers-- the signs indicate the various wall additions and changes by the Dutch.

Elaine (right) and our friend Alesa, our travel companion for this trip, holding down the fort.  Elaine met Alesa at the bus stop in Singapore one day, and struck up a conversation.  She is a professor of Communications at a local business school here in Singapore.  As it turns out she attended school with my sister at UC Santa Cruz.  Is the world a small place, or what?

Stadthuys--  located on Dutch Square facing the Melaka River, and built in 1650.  This served as the official residence of the governor, and as an administrative centre.  Currently it is the Museum of History and Ethnography, one of several museums in the city.  (Melaka has more museums than any other city in Malaysia).  The red color is true to the period, and allegedly was originally painted with the juice of betel nuts, which are native to the region.

Christ Church--  a protestant church built by the Dutch.  Construction started in 1741 but wasn't completed until 1753.

For hundreds of years, people from many cultures including Arab, Indian, Chinese, and others came to Malaka and settled. Particularly under the English, many Chinese settled in the area. Peranakan (a cultural mixture, primarily Chinese and Malay) created a unique culture for the area.
As a consequence of the variety of cultural influences over the centuries, Melaka has an interesting blend of architectures in its old city.

St. Paul's Church (ruins)--  This church resides on the hill above the old city.  Built in 1521 by the Portuguese and named "Church of our Lady of the Hill".  The Dutch renamed it St. Paul Church, and used it as part of their fortress.  There are some impressively carved memorial stones inside.

Inside St Paul on the Hill (ruins)

We stayed at a backpacker guest house (200 years old) along the Melaka River--  not Michelin 5-star, but clean, and very friendly.  And inexpensive-- RM19 per night (about US$7).  The guest house was a typical structure for the area along the river-- a warehouse on the first floor, with access to the river in the back, and business conducted along the street from the front.  The merchant owners lived in quarters upstairs.  This is a typical shop house style structure evident here and in Singapore.

Melaka River, from our guest house.  The river has walkways along most of the old city area, on both sides.  Tour boats ply the river all day and most of the evening.

Pedal Power--  One of the opportunities for visitors to Melaka is a ride in one of the Tuk Tuks.  They are ornately decorated with large bugs (in this case a bee) or flowers.  Apparently a most modern addition for them are  high powered car stereo systems, electronic horns, or other paraphernalia which allows you to go deaf while being pedalled about the old town.  Apparently Malaysia (or maybe just Melaka) is caught in some type of music time warp--  nearly all of the music heard in the restaurants, shops,  and Tuk Tuks were Western songs from the 70's and 80's.

In the old town square there is a replica sailing ship, which is part of the maritime museum.  School girls on a field trip.  The front.....

... and the back

Melaka--  a distance of approximately 250 Km, that should take 2 1/2 hours, but actually took about 4 1/2 hours.  The delay is incurred by the heavy weekend traffic, and the need to go through immigration and customs control.  At the Singapore border everyone exits the coach, goes through immigration to have their passport stamped.  We then re board the coach and drive about 500 meters to the Malaysia control center to pass through their immigration and customs.  (You need to remove all luggage and belongings from the coach).  The process is repeated in reverse on the return journey.  The coach travel was very pleasant, and reasonable-- S$45 (US$36) round trip.

Melaka was quite warm and humid-- about 32C, which made walking about a little challenging, with frequent breaks for air conditioning and re hydration.  Air con is less prevalent in Malaysia than Singapore, with many of the museums and shops having only fans.

Dragon Boat--  while we were in Melaka a dragon boat race was being held on the river, at the Malaysian Heritage Centre.  The person in the front has a drum to establish cadence for the paddlers.  The person in back (standing) attends to a rudder to steer the boat.  Apparently everyone else drew the shorter straws.

Water Monitor--  These guys are a pretty common sight along the river.  This one is moderate sized.  Another that we saw may have been 4 or 5 feet in length!  They are rather shy, so not much of a threat.



These characters are rather common sights as well.  Many cats in Singapore and Malaysia have a curious genetic defect that results in tails that have an abrupt right angle bend to them.  These two were pleasant enough, but in my opinion a lot of the cats in the Singapore 'hood look like they have an attitude-- perhaps the over sized ears and small head.  It is illegal to have cats as house pets in the public HDB housing in Singapore-- there are volunteer "feeders"-- cat lovers that bring cats food.  Singapore is just now initiating a program that captures the wild cats, neuters them, and then returns them to their capture location.  I am not sure of the policies in Malaysia.





Architecture--  Because of the variety of invaders and inhabitants, Melaka has a fascinating mix of building architecture.  This is the Malaysia Independence Memorial Hall 



Sultan's Istana--  Each of the states of Malaysia were once ruled by sultans (chiefs).  The architectures of buildings in these various regions of Malaysia vary considerably.  This is a replica of the Istana (palace) of the sultan of Malacca, now a museum.  Inside are beautifully carved panels and doors, with hardwood everywhere.



Melaka has a strong Chinese heritage-- the immigrants created a unique Paranakan culture.  Pastel colors of pink and turquoise are common.

Temple Road has a representation of many faiths within a block, with Hindu, Muslim, and Buddhist temples.  This is the Buddhist temple, which is spectacularly ornate.

Scourge of the Seas--  We walked to the coast where the Melaka River enters the Melaka Strait (the Barrage).  As we have seen in most the coastal areas of Southeast Asia, Melaka was no exception.  There is a LOT of trash floating about in our oceans.  Plastic.  It has been a wonderful creation for man, but with a terrible dark side.  It is a pollutant that doesn't go away, and it is harming the habitat.  Please do your part to minimize its use, and dispose of it properly (for recycling).  This is a crisis that few people are aware of.

Homesick--  This was a small reminder of Boise, and our neighbor state to the south, Utah.

Art Gallery--  We weren't quite sure about this style of art. :-)   And surprising for a conservative Muslim country!

Power Chairs

One of the more interesting companies that has sales outlets all about Singapore is Oto.  They are a local company specializing in "health and body care" products.  Aside from some products I consider a little dubious (embedded magnet health bracelets and sandals, etc.) there is a line of... power relaxation chairs.  This is no ordinary chair.  Should you be so fortunate as to have one in your house, you will need to protect your turf from the other household members who will covet your evening retreat.  In addition to the comfy back, side, and seat, it has leg rests that envelop your calves, all of which will massage away those stresses from the day.  This thing will be the center piece of your family room or den, and be front and center for notice by visitors.

But alas, comfort does not come cheaply.  A power relaxation chair such as the Cyber Pro 2900 (the high end model) retails for S$2680.

This puts  Archie Bunker's All In The Family chair to shame.

Hello Dali

One of the recent additions to Singapore has been the Art and Science Museum at the Marina Bay Sands complex.  It is a strange looking building, which resembles a lotus flower, with some of its petals fallen off.  It sits on Marina Bay, the central showcase area of downtown Singapore, along with Marina Bay Sands, a large resort and casino complex, with what looks like a ship perched 55 floors up.

Art Science Museum on the Marina Bay, Singapore

We have now been to three exhibits at the museum (see Art Science Museum), which has become a  part of our standard tour for in-town visitors (as well as the Sky Deck at MBS).  While Elaine's mom, Barbara was visiting this past May, we attended an exhibit of Salvador Dali art showing at the museum.  The exhibit featured mostly sculptures, some of which we had seen previously at an exhibit in London several years ago.

Dali's art has always impressed me--  it is very bizarre indeed, and I admit I fail to appreciate or recognize the symbolism embedded in it.  But I find it interesting to look at.  I particularly like his "clocks" themed work, and Dali Vision, a creative mosaic approach of pictures that are pixelated with miniature pictures within pictures.  Most famous is his "Abraham Lincoln" portrait, a print of which hung in our house for several years.  Unfortunately this exhibit did not include any Dali Vision pieces.

Dali had a thing with drawers, which is a recurring theme in several of his works.

This sculpture was outdoors at the museum entrance

Clocks are another recurring theme, and several pieces in the exhibit had clocks.

More works of art (but not by Dali)--   Barbara and Elaine on top of the MBS Sky Deck, overlooking Marina Bay, Singapore 

Hair Feathers

The troubling trend (for fly tyers) that I posted in February [A Run on Feathers] has apparently gone from an annoyance to an epidemic problem.  The general media has picked up the story and many reports have described the feather fever, including reports coming from the friends back at Idaho Angler in Boise.  The world continues to be small, as a friend (non fisherman) commented on FaceBook about the trend, after reading an article about it in The Straits Times, the local Singapore newspaper.  The article was an AP release, and included an interview with the guys at Idaho Angler.
Despite the miles, with today's technologies, you are never really very far from home.

Media Stories:

• http://midcurrent.com/2011/06/08/the-daily-hackle/
• ttp://midcurrent.com/2011/06/07/feather-pioneer-henry-hoffman-on-the-hair-extension-craze/
• http://kuow.org/northwestnews.php?storyID=137034427

Anglers' 'Hackles' Raised Over New Hair Trend

MacRitchie Reservoir Park

This past weekend Elaine and I made a trip to MacRitchie Reservoir Park, one of the Singapore parks that has been on our list for some time.  Singapore has several fresh water reservoirs in its interior, which provide water for the city.  The water basin areas also serve as nature reserves and parks for some limited recreation, not unlike many water reservoirs in The States.  The reservoirs are also a keystone of Singapore history.  Singapore was the largest military base in the world in the British Empire prior to World War II, and a strategic center for Southeast Asia.  However, the Japanese, with a smaller invading force than the British defence, was able to force capitulation after only a month of battle because they were able to capture the areas surrounding the reservoirs, and disrupt the water supply to Singapore.

Tree Top Walk

Our main interest in MacRitchie was to do a "hike" in a more rural area, but also see and walk on the Tree Top Walk, an elevated bridge across a small gorge in the park.  (Truth told, you are never too far from the city anywhere in Singapore.)  The bridge is about 250m in length, although the "walk" follows a boardwalk through the jungle area (some areas are boggy), which is about 1.2 Km in total.  To reach the Tree Top Walk requires about 4.5 Km, and another 4 or 5 Km to get back, so all told, our hike was north of 10 Km.  The journey took us in a complete loop around the edges of MacRitchie Reservoir.  It took us about 4 hours.

Jim & Elaine on the MacRitchie Park Tree Top Walk

Tree Top Walk bridge--  The TTW is a narrow suspension bridge (yes, a little sway).  Patrons are required to go a single direction, no returns as it is rather narrow.  A ranger monitors the bridge at one end, and access is locked during non-open hours.

The weather was cloudy, and a very slight rain brought a few drops on occasion during the afternoon.  This may sound bad, but actually the walk would have been unbearably hot if it had been a bright sunny day.   Despite the high humidity in Singapore city proper, it was noticeably more humid in the jungle forest of MacRitchie.  By the end of the walk, I was as soaked as I might have been if we had been caught in a real Singapore downpour, with not overwhelming exertion.  Distances here can be deceiving--  a short distance can seem much longer because of the heat and humidity.

Mystery Shoe Failures

Apparently the trails around MacRitchie are quite rugged, or mysteriously hard on shoes.  We probably passed as many as a dozen different shoe soles along the path-- pieces of shoes from blow-outs along the way.  Fortunately, unlike the shoes along the Washington state coast, there were no feet in these shoes-- just the rubber/plastic sole parts.  What causes these failures?  Nike should investigate.

Rubber on the Trail--  a piece of someone's shoe.  I saw MANY of these.  There is something odd going on at MacRitchie Reservoir.  Something causing massive shoe failure.  Perhaps it is the heat and high humidity, or runners that just overheated their feet with a strong run!

MacRitchie Reservoir Park-- the jungle trail

No Fly Fishermen Allowed

As I discussed in an earlier post, fresh water fly fishing in Singapore is nearly illegal.  I got to see this first hand at MacRitchie Reservoir.  That's not to say it is totally illegal here.  Here's the information:

As it says, the allowable fishing area starts here:

... and it ends here:

To give you better perspective, here is another picture:

The vertical sign post some ways down the shore is the first sign.  All other areas around the reservoir appear to be restricted.  To fly fish in this area requires a good roll cast, or use of a switch rod, as the walking path behind the approved area is pretty close for a back cast.  I'm also pretty sure the fish in the reservoir probably avoid this section.  Any of those that failed to do so, disappeared.

The restrictions don't stop everyone...

The park is patrolled by rangers, so fishermen beware!

I was pleased to see some promotion of Catch And Release practices:

Long-tailed Macaque Monkey--  Humans aren't the only ones at MacRitchie park.  There are also golfers enjoying use of the golf course along one side of MacRitchie.

But, restricting fishing to a 50 meter stretch of reservoir is probably the greatest conservation measure for fish, short of prohibiting fishing entirely.  Other aquatic activities are permissible on the reservoir.  There is a significant rowing course (with a boat house for the rowing shells) with buoys, and kayaking is done as well.

The rowing course at MacRitchie

You can read my feet!

I winced from the pain, as the attendant momentarily stopped and dug his thumb into a particular spot on my foot.  He looked up at me.

"You have neck pain."

It was a statement, not a question.  Actually, at this very moment I had severe foot pain, caused by his thumb.  With clenched teeth, I nodded, while trying to regain some facade of toughness.  Yes, I've had issues with my neck.  About four years ago a CT scan confirmed that the C6-C7 disks in my neck were bulging, causing me much discomfort and shoulder pain at the time.  How did he know?  To my relief he released the pressure, and moved along in his routine to another area of the foot.

"You have much stress"

I wasn't sure how this could be true.  Since leaving my management job four years ago, people have told me I look "more relaxed".  But, he nailed the neck thing, so maybe he was right about this too.

This past Christmas Elaine presented me with gift certificates for a local massage studio in Vivo City, our neighborhood shopping mall.  I've never had a massage before (other than as part of physical therapy for the neck thing)--  I've always thought of them as a bit narcissistic.  I probably sound a bit sexist, but many women seem to accept them as necessary part of life.  I've never had a manicure either.

After a vigorous exercise workout a couple of weeks ago, I thought a massage would be relaxing, and good relief for some sore, (underused) muscles.  Besides, we needed to use the certificates before they expired.  So I suggested to Elaine that we both go spend a certificate for a massage-- 10 minutes for S$10 each.

That didn't turn out quite like I imagined.  The masseuse found interesting ways to impart pressure on my back, not much of it relaxing.  I thought he was attempting to drive his elbow through my back and out my chest.  I was pretty sure I heard pieces of flesh coming loose internally.  Ten minutes was probably enough.

The foot massage I thought would be different.  Not so much.  The thirty minute procedure started with a nice hot foot bath, followed by several minutes of foot abuse.

A sharp pain returned to my foot, this time in a different spot.  The masseuse again looked up at me.

"You have problem with your gut."

Well yes, perhaps correct again.  We had some food court dinner the day before, which hadn't been all that great, and a bit spicy.  I was finding this all a little disquieting.  What other personal information was this man discovering about me, betrayed to him by my feet?  I had been hacked, through my feet!

"You have many years of tension built up.  I cannot remove that in 30 minutes.  It take two or three one hour sessions, at least.  It get better and not hurt so much after a while"

From his look, I can tell that he is politely informing me that my body is a difficult case for him.  Should I continue in his care,  my massage therapy will likely become a case study for masseuse academics.  I need to consider this, and determine if I can face regular visits to get me beyond the "a while".  Why is it that these things that are supposed to be "good" for you--  exercise, massage all involve pain?  Isn't that the signal mechanism from the body to the brain for Bad?

Massage is popular in Singapore-- there are massage salons everywhere, and perhaps Singaporeans really do believe they are a necessary part of life.  Foot Reflexology is an ancient Asian and Middle Eastern practice that ties the health of many parts of the body through the nerves in the feet.  It has been practiced for many centuries.

"You hate dogs, and didn't get along with your mother."

OK, I made that part up, the masseuse didn't say that.  But perhaps a visit to the foot masseuse can be as productive as a visit to the GP or even the shrink.  It is something that can augment Western medicine.  After all, he disclosed all those things about me in only a few minutes of pummeling my feet.  And the fee was considerably less money than the CT scan cost.

Admittedly, after completing the procedure on only one foot, it was noticeably more relaxed, and the joints more loose, than the other.  In thirty minutes, I had two flexible feet, and diagnosis of other ailments.  I am now out of certificates, but if my feet are willing, who knows what another session might discover about me?

Along the feet theme is another ancient Asian practice, the fish pedicure, also available here. Patrons sit with their feet immersed in an aquarium tank, and allow small fish (carp) to nibble away the dead skin.  Hmmm... maybe NEXT week.

Singlish, lah

Singapore has four official languages:  English, Mandarin Chinese, Malay, and Tamil.  English is the administrative language, and the other three respect the cross-cultural demographics of Singapore, representing the three largest ethnic groups in the population.  When one first arrives, as an English language speaker, you may not be able to comprehend the conversations around you.  However, with a keen ear you will come to realize that English is quite prevalent, but in variation-- Singlish, the Singapore dialect.

Certain expressions are used to which we are not accustomed--  "can" may replace "yes" when responding to a question.  And most common, the expression "Lah" may be added to the end of sentences for added emphasis.  For example, "Your are late, lah!".  Here is some help if you want to understand "talking cock" (boisterous speech) in Singlish.  Learning and understanding Singlish is possible after some time, and some expats can become very adept.

Singaporeans are generally very calm and peaceful.  So it was rather unusual to witness a loud argument between two men in front of a shop, during a recent visit to Chinatown.  Apparently the shop owner had expelled a customer from his shop for "disturbing the other customers".  I'm not sure what this meant.  The Singlish started flying back and forth, and concluded with the finale of "F*%# you, lah" and the response, "No, F*%# you,lah!"  No real translation required.