MacRitchie Reservoir Park

This past weekend Elaine and I made a trip to MacRitchie Reservoir Park, one of the Singapore parks that has been on our list for some time.  Singapore has several fresh water reservoirs in its interior, which provide water for the city.  The water basin areas also serve as nature reserves and parks for some limited recreation, not unlike many water reservoirs in The States.  The reservoirs are also a keystone of Singapore history.  Singapore was the largest military base in the world in the British Empire prior to World War II, and a strategic center for Southeast Asia.  However, the Japanese, with a smaller invading force than the British defence, was able to force capitulation after only a month of battle because they were able to capture the areas surrounding the reservoirs, and disrupt the water supply to Singapore.

Tree Top Walk

Our main interest in MacRitchie was to do a "hike" in a more rural area, but also see and walk on the Tree Top Walk, an elevated bridge across a small gorge in the park.  (Truth told, you are never too far from the city anywhere in Singapore.)  The bridge is about 250m in length, although the "walk" follows a boardwalk through the jungle area (some areas are boggy), which is about 1.2 Km in total.  To reach the Tree Top Walk requires about 4.5 Km, and another 4 or 5 Km to get back, so all told, our hike was north of 10 Km.  The journey took us in a complete loop around the edges of MacRitchie Reservoir.  It took us about 4 hours.

Jim & Elaine on the MacRitchie Park Tree Top Walk

Tree Top Walk bridge--  The TTW is a narrow suspension bridge (yes, a little sway).  Patrons are required to go a single direction, no returns as it is rather narrow.  A ranger monitors the bridge at one end, and access is locked during non-open hours.

The weather was cloudy, and a very slight rain brought a few drops on occasion during the afternoon.  This may sound bad, but actually the walk would have been unbearably hot if it had been a bright sunny day.   Despite the high humidity in Singapore city proper, it was noticeably more humid in the jungle forest of MacRitchie.  By the end of the walk, I was as soaked as I might have been if we had been caught in a real Singapore downpour, with not overwhelming exertion.  Distances here can be deceiving--  a short distance can seem much longer because of the heat and humidity.

Mystery Shoe Failures

Apparently the trails around MacRitchie are quite rugged, or mysteriously hard on shoes.  We probably passed as many as a dozen different shoe soles along the path-- pieces of shoes from blow-outs along the way.  Fortunately, unlike the shoes along the Washington state coast, there were no feet in these shoes-- just the rubber/plastic sole parts.  What causes these failures?  Nike should investigate.

Rubber on the Trail--  a piece of someone's shoe.  I saw MANY of these.  There is something odd going on at MacRitchie Reservoir.  Something causing massive shoe failure.  Perhaps it is the heat and high humidity, or runners that just overheated their feet with a strong run!

MacRitchie Reservoir Park-- the jungle trail

No Fly Fishermen Allowed

As I discussed in an earlier post, fresh water fly fishing in Singapore is nearly illegal.  I got to see this first hand at MacRitchie Reservoir.  That's not to say it is totally illegal here.  Here's the information:

As it says, the allowable fishing area starts here:

... and it ends here:

To give you better perspective, here is another picture:

The vertical sign post some ways down the shore is the first sign.  All other areas around the reservoir appear to be restricted.  To fly fish in this area requires a good roll cast, or use of a switch rod, as the walking path behind the approved area is pretty close for a back cast.  I'm also pretty sure the fish in the reservoir probably avoid this section.  Any of those that failed to do so, disappeared.

The restrictions don't stop everyone...

The park is patrolled by rangers, so fishermen beware!

I was pleased to see some promotion of Catch And Release practices:

Long-tailed Macaque Monkey--  Humans aren't the only ones at MacRitchie park.  There are also golfers enjoying use of the golf course along one side of MacRitchie.

But, restricting fishing to a 50 meter stretch of reservoir is probably the greatest conservation measure for fish, short of prohibiting fishing entirely.  Other aquatic activities are permissible on the reservoir.  There is a significant rowing course (with a boat house for the rowing shells) with buoys, and kayaking is done as well.

The rowing course at MacRitchie

You can read my feet!

I winced from the pain, as the attendant momentarily stopped and dug his thumb into a particular spot on my foot.  He looked up at me.

"You have neck pain."

It was a statement, not a question.  Actually, at this very moment I had severe foot pain, caused by his thumb.  With clenched teeth, I nodded, while trying to regain some facade of toughness.  Yes, I've had issues with my neck.  About four years ago a CT scan confirmed that the C6-C7 disks in my neck were bulging, causing me much discomfort and shoulder pain at the time.  How did he know?  To my relief he released the pressure, and moved along in his routine to another area of the foot.

"You have much stress"

I wasn't sure how this could be true.  Since leaving my management job four years ago, people have told me I look "more relaxed".  But, he nailed the neck thing, so maybe he was right about this too.

This past Christmas Elaine presented me with gift certificates for a local massage studio in Vivo City, our neighborhood shopping mall.  I've never had a massage before (other than as part of physical therapy for the neck thing)--  I've always thought of them as a bit narcissistic.  I probably sound a bit sexist, but many women seem to accept them as necessary part of life.  I've never had a manicure either.

After a vigorous exercise workout a couple of weeks ago, I thought a massage would be relaxing, and good relief for some sore, (underused) muscles.  Besides, we needed to use the certificates before they expired.  So I suggested to Elaine that we both go spend a certificate for a massage-- 10 minutes for S$10 each.

That didn't turn out quite like I imagined.  The masseuse found interesting ways to impart pressure on my back, not much of it relaxing.  I thought he was attempting to drive his elbow through my back and out my chest.  I was pretty sure I heard pieces of flesh coming loose internally.  Ten minutes was probably enough.

The foot massage I thought would be different.  Not so much.  The thirty minute procedure started with a nice hot foot bath, followed by several minutes of foot abuse.

A sharp pain returned to my foot, this time in a different spot.  The masseuse again looked up at me.

"You have problem with your gut."

Well yes, perhaps correct again.  We had some food court dinner the day before, which hadn't been all that great, and a bit spicy.  I was finding this all a little disquieting.  What other personal information was this man discovering about me, betrayed to him by my feet?  I had been hacked, through my feet!

"You have many years of tension built up.  I cannot remove that in 30 minutes.  It take two or three one hour sessions, at least.  It get better and not hurt so much after a while"

From his look, I can tell that he is politely informing me that my body is a difficult case for him.  Should I continue in his care,  my massage therapy will likely become a case study for masseuse academics.  I need to consider this, and determine if I can face regular visits to get me beyond the "a while".  Why is it that these things that are supposed to be "good" for you--  exercise, massage all involve pain?  Isn't that the signal mechanism from the body to the brain for Bad?

Massage is popular in Singapore-- there are massage salons everywhere, and perhaps Singaporeans really do believe they are a necessary part of life.  Foot Reflexology is an ancient Asian and Middle Eastern practice that ties the health of many parts of the body through the nerves in the feet.  It has been practiced for many centuries.

"You hate dogs, and didn't get along with your mother."

OK, I made that part up, the masseuse didn't say that.  But perhaps a visit to the foot masseuse can be as productive as a visit to the GP or even the shrink.  It is something that can augment Western medicine.  After all, he disclosed all those things about me in only a few minutes of pummeling my feet.  And the fee was considerably less money than the CT scan cost.

Admittedly, after completing the procedure on only one foot, it was noticeably more relaxed, and the joints more loose, than the other.  In thirty minutes, I had two flexible feet, and diagnosis of other ailments.  I am now out of certificates, but if my feet are willing, who knows what another session might discover about me?

Along the feet theme is another ancient Asian practice, the fish pedicure, also available here. Patrons sit with their feet immersed in an aquarium tank, and allow small fish (carp) to nibble away the dead skin.  Hmmm... maybe NEXT week.

Singlish, lah

Singapore has four official languages:  English, Mandarin Chinese, Malay, and Tamil.  English is the administrative language, and the other three respect the cross-cultural demographics of Singapore, representing the three largest ethnic groups in the population.  When one first arrives, as an English language speaker, you may not be able to comprehend the conversations around you.  However, with a keen ear you will come to realize that English is quite prevalent, but in variation-- Singlish, the Singapore dialect.

Certain expressions are used to which we are not accustomed--  "can" may replace "yes" when responding to a question.  And most common, the expression "Lah" may be added to the end of sentences for added emphasis.  For example, "Your are late, lah!".  Here is some help if you want to understand "talking cock" (boisterous speech) in Singlish.  Learning and understanding Singlish is possible after some time, and some expats can become very adept.

Singaporeans are generally very calm and peaceful.  So it was rather unusual to witness a loud argument between two men in front of a shop, during a recent visit to Chinatown.  Apparently the shop owner had expelled a customer from his shop for "disturbing the other customers".  I'm not sure what this meant.  The Singlish started flying back and forth, and concluded with the finale of "F*%# you, lah" and the response, "No, F*%# you,lah!"  No real translation required.

Art Science Museum @ Marina Bay Sands

The Marina Bay district of Singapore (heart of the downtown) has had construction ongoing since we arrived last year.  Several projects have completed, with several more still in progress.  The overall  area development is the flagship project of Singapore, and when completed will rival or exceed the spectacular views of The Bund in Shanghai.
The Marina Bay Sands integrated resort/casino opened last year, and in February, the Art & Science Museum attached to this complex opened.  This past weekend we went to check it out.  It, like many museums, is not a cheap date--  S$30.00 for adults for entry.  (I compare this with the US$26.00 and US$14.00 parking it cost to enter the newly rebuilt California Academy of Sciences Museum in San Francisco that we recently visited--  also a spendy day out).

Art Science Museum--  Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

The building housing the museum is unique--  it is shaped like a lotus flower, and sits on the edge of the bay.  The building has four floors--  the top floor gallery is dedicated to art and design--  with a large display on the design concepts that went into the museum building.
During our visit we toured three exhibits (not including the fourth floor art/design exhibit).
Shipwrecked:  Tang Treasures and Monsoon Winds
This exhibit was fabulous, featuring many artifacts, primarily pottery, recovered from a ninth century ship that sank near the Indonesian island of Gelitung.  The ship was Arab, and its discovery in 1998 was the first proof that Arab sea traders ventured as far as East Asia as early as the Tang Dynasty.  The pottery came mostly from central China (Xi'an), where a city of 1 million people mass produced goods, including pottery, for trade.  Thousands of pieces of pottery, and some gold and silver items were found in the wreck.
Traveling The Silk Road:  Ancient Pathway to the Modern World
This exhibit had few, if any artifacts, but presented a history of the Silk Road-- the trade route(s) between central China and Baghdad in the Middle East.  Four cities were highlighted along the route (Xi'an, Turfan, Samarkand, and Baghdad) and their role in servicing the traders and caravans of the route.  Although trade occurred for many items, silk was a major trade item, and often was used as currency for other goods and services along the route.  A part of the exhibition detailed the history of silk and how it is made--  fascinating.  (Silk worms are as domesticated as cows are--  they are blind, eat only mulberry leaves, and would now perish if left to fend for themselves in the wild.  Silk cocoons are literally unravelled to harvest the silk threads.  The coccoon must be boiled in water prior to unraveling, which is fatal to the pupae).

Silk Cocoons--  Each of these cocoons contains a silk pupae.  The cocoons are dropped in boiling water to break down the sticky binding agent.  The end of the threads are located, then "unwound" from the cocoon onto a reel, then processed for thread.

Genghis Khan
This exhibit highlighted the life and history of the famous 13th century Mongolian invader, and the empire he and his descendents created by conquering neighboring territories.  The Mongol empire stretched from Baghdad in the Middle East to the shores of the Pacific (although the Mongols were unsuccessful in conquering Japan), and from the edges of the Russian empire down to India.  The exhibit included many weapons and other artfifacts of the Mongol era, and described how Genghis was both ruthless and wise in his governance and organization.

Despite the expense I would recommend a visit to the museum, should you find yourself in Singapore for a visit.

A run on feathers...

Oh, this can't be good.  With a pseudo fly fishing theme, I thought it necessary not to pass up commenting on a recent news article I came across regarding chicken feathers, or "hackle" used in tying fishing flies.  It seems fashion has invaded the local fly and tackle shops.  Women's beauty salon owners are buying up entire supplies of hackle feathers, normally sold as the construction material for fishing flies, and causing dramatic rise in prices and stock-outs.
The feathers are being used in a new hair fashion--  hair extensions with the colorful feathers.  It began in Boulder Colorado, and is spreading worldwide.  With Miley Cyrus and other celebrities taking up the style, there will be a crush of teen emulation, and a bigger run on the fly shops for hackle.
What does this mean to the fly tyers and anglers?  Undoubtedly higher prices-- both for the raw materials for those anglers tying their own flies, and the flies supplied in the shop for those that don't.  Premium hackle feathers used for fly tying are expensive to begin with (as much as $60 or more for one high grade chicken cape), as they are from chickens bred specifically to produce feathers ideally shaped for tying the flies.  Prices are reportedly doubling overnight as a result of the run on the fly shop's supplies.
And I can only assume this can't be particularly good for the chickens out there either.

Update:  10 March   A video showing the new feather fashion.

Singapore Chinese Orchestra

Much like our concerts in the botanical gardens of Boise during the summer, Singapore has similar events in its own botanical garden.  Tonight we met our friends Stephan and Lubka for a picnic dinner and a wonderful one hour concert (free) in the Singapore botanical gardens.  The concert featured the Singapore Chinese Orchestra, and was part of the celebration ramp up for Chinese new years.

The band shell and outdoor amphitheatre couldn't be better.  The band shell is at the bottom of a gradually sloping hillside, on a pier structure with a koi pond surrounding it.  There are trees and shade along the edges of the hillside, and it provide a very pleasant environment for music and a picnic.

The orchestra was splendid, playing traditional Chinese new year music.  Although the instruments were mostly Asian (some research will be required to properly identify the instruments), the music bore a strong similarity to western culture classical music.  My ignorance of the history of the Asian music and the instruments is great--  I am wondering  if western stringed instruments have roots in the east, or if these developed independently?

UPDATE:  A quick check of Wikipedia informs me the primary instruments in the orchestra are erhu, a 2-stringed instrument played with a bow, from a family of bowed instruments called huquin.  These instruments evolved out of central Asia, and have roots over a thousand years old.  As my hypothesis proposed, the violin and other stringed instruments of western culture emerged out of Northern Italy in the 16th century, and are likely descendants of the huquin instruments, invented much earlier.



Singapore Botanical Gardens Bandshell--  The Singapore Chinese Orchestra performed a free 1 hour concert featuring traditional Chinese New Years music.



Jim, Elaine, Stephan, Lubka, and Estelle--  A nice picnic dinner, complete with champagne.  The weather was mild, with some of the monsoon breezes keeping things cool.  A delightful evening of music, food, drink, and great conversation with friends.   Estelle wasn't as entertained as the rest of us, but I am certain enjoyed an evening out with "the folks", and the broad attention from the crowd at the gardens.  The cat had a quiet evening home alone without Estelle.

Six Degrees of Separation from Singapore

If Kevin Bacon is the center of the entertainment universe, and can be linked to any other actor by six steps of separation, then Singapore must share some similar weird connection like that, where everyone in the universe is somehow connected to this place.
Yesterday we experienced yet another one of those "You've got to be kidding" circumstances that seem to keep happening.   Elaine and I were in the Chinatown MRT station, when this tall person walked up to me to say hello.  The face was familiar, but the context was all wrong.  I looked, then looked again.  The person was Mark P., whom I worked with in Boise for many years.  I hadn't seen him in perhaps 20 years.
As it turns out, Mark (who still lives and works in Boise) was in Singapore on business-- his first visit.  He was in Chinatown to see some of the sights, as Singapore is preparing for Chinese New Years.  We met for dinner that evening, and caught up on the last 20 years.
One of these chance meetings alone would be unique, however, this is the third occasion where we have met someone with first or second order linkage back to our world in the U.S.
Perhaps there actually are only two or three hundred people in the world, who are moving about constantly.   This would make the chances of these odd encounters occurring much more likely and believable.
And yet they do happen.